Semlor and Song: Cultural Connectors

I went into this journey thinking Melodifestivalen would be celebrated like the Super Bowl. The TV viewing numbers say as much. Almost half the country watches. I thought people would be pumped about the contest and all its trappings - and everybody would watch. I imagined people would sit down with friends and family to see the spectacle with a big spread of food and everybody would be talking about it - for six weeks straight.

It was sort of like that, but not quite. The final show in Stockholm followed a Super Bowl-like pattern, minus the commercials. Almost everybody watched and many people gathered together with food during the final show. There's no doubt everybody was talking about it the next day. The previous five weeks of the contest were... a bit more muted.

Things aren't always the way I expect them to be in Sweden, even though I'm familiar with the culture. It's good to know there are still surprises to be found after more than a decade of study.

Even though I look at Sweden through an experienced frame of reference, I still filter it through American eyes (or maybe Swedish-American eyes). I expected Melodifestivalen to be a well-loved party where everyone celebrates the contest and the artists in a big way. I expected an excited and positive response when I mentioned blogging about the show. The biggest response I got was, "That's kinda crazy" followed by "I don't watch the show." I thought the host cities would hold parties and large events for the general public. Karlstad tried to promote the show, although you could have stayed in Stockholm and Malmö without ever knowing Mello was happening just a few minutes from your location. Like I said, it was muted. Or, muted in an American sense. It was not what my American self had in mind.

A popular show, but not in the American sense.

I learned the show isn't so much a well-loved party as it is a well-known cultural touchstone. Everyone knows about it and has a relationship to it, either positive or negative. The show itself fills many cultural and social functions throughout its six week run. It's a way for people to escape from the daily grind for a few hours each weekend. People also use the contest to share thoughts and opinions. They use it to find new music and artists for their playlists. Using it for an excuse to party is also popular, although Swedes don't have much trouble finding reasons to go out on a Saturday night. All these functions have one thing in common - connection.

Melodifestivalen connects people. Whether you love or hate the show, you are connected to other people through its appearance every year. It gives people the opportunity to talk with each other and build relationships around the things they experience, whether that be a shared love of the contest and the songs or a shared dislike of the entire phenomena.

Folk 'n' Rock, a popular cafe in Malmö. It's a combination cafe and music store. A good place to make connections, both personal and musical.

It's the same story for semlor and Swedish food, apparently. Connection is the key. In Italy or France, the taste of the food and the experience of eating is held in high regard. In Sweden, the food isn't the star of the show. It's the people you're sitting with while you eat. Taking a coffee break, aka fika, or sitting down with a meal gives people the opportunity to relax and really connect with the person sitting across the table. Semlor play a special role in such connections since their appearance is seasonal. It brings something special to your fika time since the traditional pastry tends to bring back memories and events from previous years. What were you doing when you ate your last semla? How has your life changed since then? Such thoughts pop into your mind. They make for good discussion topics with others as you connect over food.

Helena Wahlman/imagebank.sweden.se

Cinnamon rolls are also popular fika food.

While the contest has ended and semla season is soon over, the memories remain. Next year, the same process will repeat. People will eat and listen - and connect. Old friendships and relationships will be strengthened. New ones will be formed. And the culture will grow richer because of it. All this because of a little semlor and song.

Semlor - making connections between people in Sweden for centuries.

__________________________

I connected with many people during my stay in Sweden. Food and music played a vital role in each encounter. Many people opened up their hearts and their homes to me during my stay as well. My gratitude cannot be expressed in words, but I must say thank you anyway:

Thank you to Nordstjernan for giving me the opportunity to contribute to your publication. And to everyone I spoke with during my stay, I say thank you for your insight into the contest and the culture!

A special thank you goes to CouchSurfers Michael, Emma, Christian and Alexander, along with Sara and the entire congregation at Missionskyrka in Gnosjö for giving me a place to call home while on the road.

Another big thank you to dancer and actor Ausben Jordan, Pia Andersson from Melodifestivalsklubben, Ann-Charlotte from Ave Produktion, singer and author Jenny Berggren, and Andreas at the Swedish-American Center in Karlstad for sharing your time, insight, and knowledge with me during our longer discussions. You provided in-depth insight into the contest in a way I could not have reached otherwise.

A final thank you to everyone reading the blog. I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it. Maybe one day you'll go to Sweden to see Melodifestivalen yourself. If you do, be sure to eat a few semlor for me!

Love It or Hate It

Just like the competition factor, the opinion factor can help explain Mello's popularity in Sweden. Everyone loves to tell you what they think, whether they love the show or hate it.

One of the hosts, Gina Dirawi, was interviewed in the official program magazine about her thoughts on the contest. When they asked her what she liked about it, she said, "What's nice about Melodifestivalen is that you can hate it as much as you like and you can love it as much as you like. And I like that such a contrast exists." I was schooled in that contrast when I talked to people. There's no real in between. People either love it or hate it.

If you love the show, you'll find yourself in the arena watching it live in person.

People who love the show and follow it had detailed opinions on the artists, their numbers, and who should win first place, such as Pia from Melodifestivalsklubben. People who don't watch, or claim they don't, felt strongly about the contest as well. They focused on the trappings of the show instead. They told me about the politics, the humor, the way the artists were chosen, the type of music involved, and so on. I found no lack of opinion, no matter who I asked. Everyone had a strong sense of what they wanted to say.

Some people had informed opinions. Others did not. One gentleman told me all the artists are fake and don't sing their own songs, nor do they write their own songs, which is patently false. He had no qualms about giving me his highly uninformed, yet highly entertaining, opinion anyway.

If you hate the show, you'll find yourself scanning this QR code. "Don't care about Melodifestivalen? Neither do we! Come and dance with us on Saturday instead!"

The contest is also a good forum for complaints, which is a common part of Swedish culture. Some say Swedes are the biggest complainers in the world, which might very well be true. And Mello is a complaint magnet. A sampling of the many complaints from this year's show: The show is too long. The artists are no good. The co-host can't pronounce English properly. The comedy sketches are offensive. The wrong song won. We shouldn't have an international jury. And so on. It's almost a national sport here, which goes to prove if you don't have any major life issues to complain about, you'll find something. It's just human nature.

This unusual relationship with the program caught my attention. Everyone has a connection to it and therefore a relationship to it at the same time. Whether you watch or not, you will hear about it. You will know who the winner is and you will hear the song played throughout the next year. You cannot escape its presence, no matter who you are. This inability to escape its shadow might have created the ill will some feel against the program. The show is everywhere and to escape it is nearly impossible. It's on TV, in the news, in the stores, on the radio, talked about in the office, at school, on the streets, in the subway. If you love it, you're in luck. If you don't care, you will hear about it anyway. So, why not form an opinion of it? You might as well. And it seems everyone has done just that.

Melker Dahlstrand/imagebank.sweden.se

There's no escaping Melodifestivalen - even underground. Every single person sitting within earshot of me on the subway was talking about the results of the final show an hour after it had ended. An estimated 4.2 million people watched it - almost half the country's population.

As for myself, after following the show for six weeks, I can see how a person could burn out on it since you can't escape it. Regardless, I still love the show and the circus surrounding it. It might be easier for me to handle since I mostly get blank stares from anyone in the States who has never heard of it. I'm not bombarded by all the promotion in the same way, either.

For anyone who hates it, you could move to the US, but I'm sure you'd feel nostalgic after a year or two. You would start missing it, then you would end up in a karaoke bar singing ABBA's Waterloo at the top of your lungs, "Waterloo, I was defeated, you won the war. Waterloo, promise to love you for ever more. Waterloo, couldn't escape if I wanted to. Waterloo, knowing my fate is to be with you," which might secretly prove you love Melodifestivalen after all, no matter what you might say about it.

Ola Ericson/imagebank.sweden.se

The Semla and the Swede

I've learned a semla is a bit like a typical Swede:

• Semlor don't really stick out at first. There's nothing crazy about them. They're nice looking pastries, often presented in an appealing manner. Many Swedes don't try to stick out and have a nice, modern sense of style, too.

• Semlor look unassuming. You don't think there's anything incredible about them at first glance. You expect a good pastry, but you don't think there's anything more to it than that. And maybe, you might even think semlor are slightly boring. A little sugar, bread, and whipped cream. Ok. Nothing special. Sometimes, when people go to Sweden or meet Swedes, they come away thinking Swedes are unassuming and maybe a bit boring, too.

• Semlor are only available under certain conditions, like the time of the year. Like a semla, many Swedes are open to conversation only under certain conditions. You don't usually strike up a conversation in an elevator or on the street. That would be a bit awkward and strange, which leads tourists and foreigners to think Swedes are cold and aloof. There's a joke in Sweden about people smiling at you on the street. If you encounter someone who smiles at you, they're either one of two things - drunk or American. There are proper times to socialize and improper times. If you schedule a get-together where people are expected to socialize and chat, you'll find people in Sweden to be open and caring, genuine and funny.

• Semlor have a surprise inside. You think the semla is boring and typical at first glance. That's because you can only see the surface. If you go deeper, you'll find the best part is at the heart of the semla - a sweet mix of sugar and almonds blended together, creating a unique and unforgettable flavor. Swedish culture is a bit like that too. At the heart of it, the culture is full of warmth, care, laughter, and humor with a unique flavor all its own. You just have to get past the outside to see it, which can sometimes be a little tricky.

• Semlor and coffee are a match made in heaven. I don't drink much coffee, but I've been told the two make a perfect fit - just like Swedes and their coffee. Coffee looms large in the culture, as does the coffee break, otherwise known as "Fika". Sitting down with a semla and a cup of java gives you an opportunity to socialize and chat with those around you - a good way to get to the heart of a Swede.

• Semlor are unique. Yes, there are similar pastries in other parts of the world. Estonia, Finland, and Denmark even have variations of the semla. But, no one makes a semla, or celebrates it, like the Swedes. Just like the pastry, Swedes and Swedish culture is unique. The country and culture has its own style and ways of seeing the world. A few years ago, a World Values Survey was released. This survey placed countries on a chart based on their cultural values. Unique Sweden ended up in the far top-right corner, well apart from all the rest.

• Semlor are just awesome and so are the Swedes. No explanation needed.

There's more to both the semla and the Swede than you first expect.

Camilla Degerman/imagebank.sweden.se

Competition and Swedish Culture

During the CouchSurfing meeting in Karlstad, I had the chance to chat with several locals about many different topics. Our meeting began at a local restaurant called Tempel. When we walked in,  the waitress invited us to take part in a Melodifestival contest. Each team was given a piece of paper with a crossword puzzle on it. The restaurant played different songs and provided clues to each answer. Our job was to fill in the puzzle and try to win.

There were about six teams in the entire restaurant. Our big group made up half of the teams on its own. Emma named our team, "Houston, We Have A Problem" because we were clueless when it came to the first three clues. We ended up in the middle of the pack by the end, which isn't bad considering our terrible start.

After the competition, I had the chance to ask several of the local CS hosts,"Why is Melodifestivalen so popular?" The most popular answer centered around competition. Swedes love to compete and they love to watch competitions, too. I could see this. We just finished a competition against other teams in the restaurant, after all.

How important is competition to Swedish life and culture? It's not exactly encouraged in all places. School and work is all about teamwork, thus competition can be frowned upon in these places. But, when it comes to sports and music and similar pursuits that pit one person against the other on a fair playing level, Swedes hold nothing back.

Sweden excels in many international contests. The NHL is full of Swedish-born players. The national soccer teams do their best to qualify for the World Cup. And Swedish Olympians are always highly celebrated, especially when they return with a medal. The country even holds a national award banquet for sports competitors similar to the Oscars, Grammys, or Golden Globe ceremonies in the United States. Competition is a big part of the culture and encouraged -  in the right forum.

 Rodrigo Rivas Ruiz/imagebank.sweden.se

Swedes also compete in digital gaming and graphics. DreamHack is the world's largest computer festival, with a quarter million in prize money up for grabs. Parts of the competition are shown on Swedish TV.

It's the fair type of competition Swedes enjoy watching. They are not fans of cutthroat competition, but fair and level contests are popular. Is the competition factor the main reason the song contest is so popular? No, it's not the whole story. The idea of competition does, however, go a long way in explaining why many Swedes who don't care for the music watch anyway. They're drawn in by the competition and the fight and the crowning of a big winner.

Melodifestivalen and the Heralding of Spring

Weather is important in Sweden. It shapes the culture and changes the way people live and work. Warm or cold, winter or summer, weather is a major component of everyday life. You can't avoid being affected by it. Swedes celebrate spring and summer through holidays like Valborg and Midsummer and long for its return through holidays like Lucia in December.

Picnicking in the park is a popular way to enjoy nice weather in Sweden.

So, how does Melodifestivalen and weather fit together? The contest begins in early February and lasts until mid March. When the show starts, the country is still draped in snow and ice. By the time the final rolls around six weeks later, the country is starting to slowly warm up. Signs of spring emerge. Snow starts melting. Flowers begin to bloom. The days grow longer and brighter.

In this sense, Melodifestivalen is used as a sort of barometer. You start watching the show that first week. The weather is cold and the nights contain a dull, grey darkness. Around the third week, you notice more light during the days. The sun begins to shine more often. Around the final show, blue skies emerge and flowers begin to bloom. That's when you know the darkest and coldest nights are a memory. In this sense, the song contest helps people count down the remaining days of winter in a fun, enjoyable way.

Sweden at Schiphol

One hour to go before boarding the flight to Philly. The second level of Schiphol promised even more shopping experiences. It also provided a lot of opportunities to see Swedish culture abroad. I stumbled upon several Swedish products while wandering around the departures area upstairs. So far, I've seen Swedish books, stores, and food. I've even heard Swedish music over the airport speakers.

Swedish crime fiction is still hot. Three different authors are represented here. 

Clothing giant H&M is almost as ubiquitous as other multinationals like Apple and Starbucks.

Raw samon cured with salt, dill, and sugar. Not too popular here. This is on sale, 40% off.

Daim, a typical and popular type of Swedish candy. It used to be called Dajm. It was changed to make it more English friendly.

I also found a library smack in the middle of the departures area. It's simply called Airport Library and it is the first permanent airport library in the world. It's made up of several couches, two long desks with iPads, free wifi and outlet plugs for charging electronic equipment. Several shelving units sit behind the desks and include books on Amsterdam and the Netherlands in different languages. I like! Right now, several people are using the library, including myself, naturally.

It's about time for me to leave Europe, so I'll say farewell until I hit the other side of the Atlantic. I will leave at 12 PM and get to Philadelphia around 4 PM, with flying time clocking in at about eight hours. The magic of crossing time zones going West. An eight hour flight takes only four going the other way. The flight is not fully booked, so no chance of a bump for me. Maybe from Philly to Houston? I would take it if they offered!

Oh So Many People

 The last two artists on the schedule are David Lindgren and Yohio:

David Lindgren performing Skyline

David Lindgren's Skyline

Yohio merchandise for the younger crowd

The elevators are packed and everywhere else, too.

People finding any free space they can get.

The presenter holding up a Yohio poster, which elicited a teen squeal fest. I remember those days. 

                                                                                                                                                                            

Yohio's Heartbreak Hotel

The signing table is wrapped so deep, there's no way Yohio can meet everyone. There was a rush to get to the table after the performance. I was wondering if the shopping center was going to bring out the guards to corral people, but Swedes are still pretty good about order, even when trying to meet their favorite singers. The line is calm yet long. Very long.