Sunny Stockholm

It's another blue sky day in Stockholm.  Today marks my last full day in the city until I begin my travel back home. I just said goodbye to Alexander,  my last CouchSurfing host. He took me out for a mini semla before we parted ways at the central station.

Alexander showed me several sights around town, including the Royal Library, which was a first for me. We ate at several nice places in town and enjoyed chatting about Sweden, the Netherlands, and the United States during our walks. Alexander is currently in an intense study period for his engineering exams. Even though he's busy with his studies, he took time out to show me around Stockholm. For that and all his hospitality, I am grateful!

Opinions about last night's Mello show are still going strong. Everyone at the central station and on the subway was talking about the show after Alexander and I left the student center. The biggest point of conversation was the international jury vote. This contest marks only the third time since 2005 where the official jury's vote changed the end result. This isn't sitting well with the public, since many people feel the general public should have the final say. A few of the newspapers are reporting difficulties voting as well. I sent in a few votes myself and am unsure if any of those made it through. That's not real news though. It happens every year. When you have a million votes trying to get through in an hour and a half, some just won't make it.

I hear there's a song church service at nearby St. Clara church in about an hour. I'll head there and then it's off to find a few interesting things to bring home to family and friends.

Gathering for the Grand Finale

Melodifestivalen is a way to socialize. It's a way to connect. It's something to gather around. It brings us together and gives us something to talk about. If you don't watch it, you can't talk about it the next day. I've heard each of these descriptions from different people in the past three weeks. They tell me it is very Swedish to gather for the final with food, a party, and an opinion. In that way, the contest helps people get together, socialize, and enjoy a little time out of life.

Get Ready with Festival Food, a free recipe booklet from grocery store sponsor, Coop.

What better way to celebrate the final event than to do just that? I'll be watching the final with a group of students from the Royal Institute of Technology. Alexander, my CouchSurfing host, is a member of the student union and has invited me along to watch the show on their big screen TV. I've heard their broadcast equipment is top of the line and the sound is impeccable. 

You can watch online via SVT Play, starting at 8 PM CET ( 2 PM Eastern Standard US Time):  http://www.svtplay.se/video/1071366/finalen-med-forsnack

Friday's Practice Round

Watching the event live gives you a feeling of excitement and a peek behind the scenes. You miss the close up details from TV, but you gain a unique experience which can't be replicated anywhere else but on the arena floor.

The size of the Friends Arena and the amount of people struck me first. This event is five times bigger than the semi-final in Malmö on every level. The arena itself is Texas sized, and I don't say that lightly. I was not prepared for the sweeping expanse of space. Ulrik Munther's team even made the decision to get a bigger background screen to fit the stage. The scene itself now includes an extra bar on top of the three from previous arenas. I presume these changes were made to help fit the stage to the scale of the arena. Before the show was underway, the stage manager told us to look around and find emergency exits in case anything happened. My closest one was probably a three minute walk.

Advertisers were all over the perimeter of the building again. This time, they practically threw themselves at you to give you free stuff. I'm OK with that. I ended up with free hot chocolate, chips, candy, bags, and a harmonica, of which I can use to annoy people on the subway. If you go to the live event, be prepared to be bombarded with stuff. Don't bring a bag. You'll have plenty to choose from when you get there.

When you're there in person, the sound and live effects go through you, so you feel more of the performance. Feeling the sound, fire, and pyrotechnics can change your perception of a song. During Friday practice rounds, the audience is polled on their favorite performers of the night. Audience members are asked by members of Melodifestivalklubben who they would vote for if they could, since you cannot vote during a practice.  These polls sometimes show popular opinion, but many times they show the best live act. The difference between the Friday night poll and the Saturday night result is due to this live effect.

People around you add to the show as well. The girls next to me had gigantic signs supporting Anton Ewald and Ulrik Munther. They cheered and clapped every time either artists was mentioned and held up their signs during the performances. The family of four behind me were decked out in glittery gold top hats. It's a party atmosphere and it adds to the enjoyment. Kids were everywhere in the arena and every time an artist sauntered up the catwalk, the kids were right there to greet them.

The artist catwalk on TV looks clean and well organized, which it is from the camera's perspective. From an audience view, you can see a lone person (or a few people) surrounded by a sea of onlookers snapping photos, cheering, and standing near their seats. It looks messier in person, but more alive. This also goes for the camera angles. The cameras are omnipresent on the arena floor. They're on cranes, on top of the catwalk, strapped to people, on the roof, and on stage to sweep up every possible angle. Watching the crew work their magic is part of the fun.

The artists look smaller on stage and their humanity is more evident. On TV, you see a polished product. In the arena, you're more likely to see the person waiting to be the artist. They are preparing in those few seconds when the camera isn't on them. They're jumping up and down or standing quietly to calm their nerves before their big entrance. They are themselves before the red light clicks. When it does, they become their artist persona.

I understand why 25,000 people decided to be there for the Friday practice run. It's a laid-back, lighthearted atmosphere offering a unique perspective on the show.

Busy Wednesday

My meeting with Ausben Jordan was exciting but far too short. I was able to chat with him for about twenty minutes between his West Side Story rehearsals and his lunch break. He told me he had no idea about Melodifestivalen or Eurovision before he was asked to dance for Loreen in last year's program. That shouldn't come as a surprise because the two shows are not well known in the US. He also mentioned a major differences between the two shows. He said there is more diversity in music during Eurovision than in Mello since this qualifier focuses more on music from one country instead of many different countries. He thought about entering his own song in Melodifestivalen this year, but he wanted to make changes to his entry and didn't have time to do so before the deadline. He said he's still interested in sending something in and performing it, so we might see him in next year's show.

Ausben striking a pose. He's part Native American, as you can see by his t-shirt.

A walk around Stockholm reveals a few places covered in old snow. It's quickly melting away.

A library satellite in the city's culture house. You can even use your own USB to download ebooks and music from a public kiosk to take home.

A part of the government buildings in the Old Town.

Pink and blue sunset near Slussen.

A popular street food trailer in town where you can get herring and potatoes with Wasa bread.

I also met Alexander, my CouchSurfing host, at a place called Slussen this evening. The name roughly means "sieve" and it is a place where trains, buses, and pedestrians pass through. It's a bit of a junction point. Everything and everyone is funneled into the same place, hence the name. Alexander had booked a table at a local vegetarian restaurant named Hermann's, a popular place for students because of its friendly student discounts and incredible view of central Stockholm. The restaurant even let me get a discount because I'm studying in Texas. We ate so much, I'm not sure I'll be hungry tomorrow morning. 

Alexander, my host for the next few days and me.

 Vegetarian delight. The evening's theme was Middle Eastern vegetarian.

After dinner, we headed back out to Alexander's home in the suburbs. He lives in a house with a Swedish family and a few other university students. We chatted about Stockholm, our lives, the Swedish language, studying, and interesting sights in the town. He also taught me to fly and land an F-14 on a carrier, with an iPhone app. You have to use your bus/train travel time wisely. When Alexander found out I work in a library, he suggested a few must-see libraries in the area. And, for me, a vacation is not complete without a visit to a library. I've already managed to see two in Stockholm already, however, I'm always up for seeing more libraries.

There's no sign of Melodifestivalen here in town, which is a bit disappointing. I expected to see at least a billboard or two. So far, there's been nothing. Karlstad is definitely winning that contest. They made a party out of it, which is what the contest is supposed to be. Alexander did tell me about the Student Unions, who have scheduled Melodifestivalen viewing parties on Saturday. That's the only indication so far that the contest is happening. I've spoken with a great deal of people so far about the contest and have only had about 4-5 people admit they watch it. I think something's odd. 3.5 million people tune in each week, yet I have only run into a handful of people who say they see it? Pia, the representative from Melodifestivalsklubben, told me there used to be a stigma attached to the contest but it is not really as obvious today. It seems there's still a bit of it left, otherwise I think more people would admit to watching it. By my count, I've asked 50 people about the contest. Statistically speaking, about 15-20 people should have seen it, yet only 4-5 have told me they watched it. I'm hoping to find someone who can explain this discrepancy to me.

Meetings in Stockholm

A meeting with fellow Texan Ausben Jordan is on the agenda today. He worked with Loreen last year during both Melodifestivalen and Eurovision. They took home the top spot at both competitions and that's why Sweden is hosting Eurovision in May. 

Take a look at their winning performance:

Ausben is an accomplished dancer, actor, and musician currently preparing for his role as Loco in West Side Story at Stockholms Stadsteater. They are rehearsing today since the show opens on Friday, but he's graciously invited me to speak with him about his work during his lunch break. I'll find out what the contest looks like from a dancer's perspective and how Sweden's Melodifestival compares to Eurovision, the biggest live non-sporting event in the world.

After that, it's time for another CouchSurfing experience. Alexander is a student from the Netherlands who is staying with a Swedish family. I'll meet him tonight at a popular vegetarian place in town and learn about his experiences studying abroad. He'll be my host for the next several days and has promised a guided tour of his favorite places in the city.

Goodbye Växjö. Hello Stockholm.

The skies are clear, the weather is warming up, and I'm in Stockholm. Can't beat it. My entire day consisted of a morning walk, a museum visit, a train ride to the capital, and a trip to the grocery store. So far, I haven't seen any of Stockholm yet, except the inside of a supermarket. There are a few unusual things to see there.

One of the main streets of Växjö in the morning.

These billboards are common across the country. Anyone can post a notice. This one is plastered with the events of just one club.

On the way to the Glass Museum and the Emigrant House

Swedish design can be a bit of a question mark.

Or it can be sleek and modern.

Or even futuristic and abstract.

Inside the Dream of America exhibit.

 Walking down Snus Street in the museum, a mock-up of a Swedish American street in Chicago.

New York that way... a long way that way.

It's already dark in Stockholm and I'm hungry. Supermarket trip! This supermarket is selling Bison from the USA.

OLW loves to play up on American stereotypes in its advertising and packaging.

One of three places in the supermarket where you can buy cheese. It's a major staple here.

Yum. Vacuum sealed fish.

 Frozen berries by the scoop.

Information! The semlor are near the front, people.

Super tasty cinnamon buns, which have their own day in Sweden in October. 4 for 25 means they're about a dollar each, which is a steal.

I've never seen these before. Canned sausage. Maybe like spam? I'm not willing to find out.

Ready to eat whole shrimp. Seafood is big everywhere since Sweden has so much coastline to fish. 

Hmm, wild boar, reindeer, or elk for dinner?

I'll take elk, thank you!

Five Minute Recap of the Remaining Contestants

The sixth and final installment of Melodifestivalen will be broadcast in Stockholm on Saturday. In the meantime, listen to the 2013 finalists and choose your favorite for the win:

The Artists - The Final (So Far)

In the Final: These singers have their final spot all wrapped up. They will be joined by two artists from Semi 4 and two from the Second Chance round. The final 10 will duke it out to represent Sweden in Eurovision 2013.

Yohio - A 17-year-old Swede who is a superstar in Japan with scores of teen groupies following his every move. He sings in a style called Visual Kei in Japan where visuals, costume, and make-up are just as important as the music. In Mello, he has decided to perform a song with a more Western sound. His entry, "Heartbreak Hotel" is reminiscent of 80s rock a la Bon Jovi. His live performance includes heavy use of fire, confetti and pyrotechnics, creating a memorable performance for both the live audience and TV viewers.

David Lindgren - A showman, singer, break dancer and family man who was relatively unknown until last year's program. His breakthrough came last year with his performance of "Shout It Out" in Gothenburg. He opened the contest this year with "Skyline", a dance number similar to last year's entry. David was a favorite to go straight to the final and he stamped his ticket in early February.

Sean Banan - Another artist who debuted in the 2012 program. Sean Banan is your typical class clown, using corny visuals and no-so veiled euphemisms in interviews. This year's entry, "Copacabanana" is full of puns, inside jokes, cultural critiques, and light celebrity roasting. Last year he made it to the second chance round with a song poking fun at himself and Sweden, but was knocked out during a duel. This year, he went directly to GO and has a secured place in the final. His song number is a spectacle complete with fireworks, confetti, and a rigged harness to hold up his angel wings.

Louise Hoffsten - A well-established adult contemporary artist with jazzy undertones. Louise was close to declining her invitation to the contest when she had difficulty deciding on a song title. A few days before the deadline, she walked down the street and saw graffiti scrawled on a wall, "Only the Dead Fish Follow the Stream". She took it as a sign and used it as the title for her song entry in MF 2013. Critics did not expect her to advance to the final, but she is ready to perform her song for the big prize in Stockholm.

Ravaillacz -This band was put together just for the contest. The members are well known singers from different groups and constellations. One member, Tommy Körberg, has won Melodifestivalen and competed in Eurovision twice. This group of guys stunned the country yesterday when they were voted into the final. Their song makes fun of schlager music, which is how Melodifestivalen got its start. They took a risk with the song, as it could have alienated many listeners, considering it both makes fun of the contest and contains a swear word in the title. Their bet paid off and they're straight into the running for Eurovision.

State of Drama - This West Coast rock band came in second in a national radio contest in 2009. Since then, they've been honing their craft throughout the country. They sent in an entry for the 2013 edition and won a ticket to Stockholm after voters sent their song "Falling" directly into the final during the third semi in the northern city of Skellefteå.

*Clips can be found on YouTube, but broadcaster SVT works hard to have those videos taken down in accordance with contest rules which says advancing songs cannot be played on the radio, TV,or internet. This rule is meant to level the playing field for the artists still involved.

Photos:  SVT 

Commence the Countdown!

I love traveling - both the process and the destination. You learn from everything and everyone you meet along the way. This time, you and I will be meeting many, many people at several stops. Here's a short rundown, which is always subject to change when traveling!

• Malmö - Our first stop in Sweden. This southern city is hosting the fourth and last semifinal on February 23rd. We will be there early to catch the first practice run on Friday night and then we'll attend the big show on Saturday evening. I'll be cheering on the artists, especially Terese.


• Göteborg - The second largest city in the country and a historical place for many Swedes who left for America in the big immigration. For many, the skyline of Gothenburg was the last glimpse they would ever have of their native land. We will visit a few of the important areas around town. We'll also meet up with some locals to talk music and Melodifestivalen on Tuesday night the 26th.


• Karlstad - The second chance round happens here on March 2. Eight artists will compete for the last two golden tickets to the final. We will meet with members of the Melodifestival club in Sweden, a country-wide contingent of fans who follow the contest year-round. Swedish America also has a presence in this sunny city. Twenty percent of Swedes who immigrated to the States came from this region. The Swedish American Center highlights this fact. We will take a tour of the center.


• Växjö - I've never been to Växjö and Småland, so I look forward to visiting a new area of the country. If you have any must visit/must eat places, let me know! I do know the city has a huge research center for Swedish American genealogy and information. That will be a definite stop in our itinerary!


• Stockholm -The crowning of the 2013 winner happens on March 9. The final week promises to be full of energy and interviews. We will chat with Semmelmannen, a connoisseur and expert on semlor. His well-known and well-visited Tumblr blog documents and grades semla offerings across the country every year. We will also stop and see what Ausben Jordan is up to after his work and winning dance with Loreen in last year's Mello and Eurovision contests. 

• Other plans? - Who knows what might happen on the road? Never plan too much because you could end up in some crazy places with a host of fascinating people. Like a Boy Scout, you should always be ready for anything.

Our winding path all around the southern half of Sweden.

I don't dare go further north during winter. My Texas hands and toes couldn't take it.

It's going to be a busy trip, so gather up your stuff and get packing. We have less than a week.